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Art Déco Panier fleuri Châtelaine, 1926, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Throughout the 1920s, timepieces became essential fashion accessories as well as functional objects. It was the perfect opportunity for Van Cleef & Arpels to take its first steps into the world of watch-making and to contribute to the transformation of the timepiece into a luxurious piece of jewelry.
The first “Châtelaine” or “Régence” models could thus be mistaken for beautifully adorned brooches, were it not for the small watch dial hidden on the back. This Art Deco-inspired model from 1926 is in platinum and set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and onyx.
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Catalogue page with jeweled wristwatch, 1924-1925, Van Cleef & Arpels' Archives
Wristwatches soon emerged as a more functional alternative to “Châtelaine” models. By the end of the 1920s, they had become sumptuous pieces of jewelry that women could even wear with their evening gowns.
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Secret watch, 1941, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Throughout the early 20th century, it was considered inelegant for a woman to wear a watch in public. For women still uncomfortable wearing one, Van Cleef & Arpels designed ingenious jeweled wristwatches with hidden dials that could discreetly be revealed.
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Cadenas watch, 1940, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
The famous Cadenas watch - which is still featured in today’s collections - was created in the same spirit in 1935. Its inclined dial enabled women to read the time discreetly during social events.
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While women’s timepieces were being transformed throughout the 1920s, men were perfecting the art of wearing pocket watches. With their simple geometric designs or Chinese-inspired motifs, these watches were already equipped with highly technical features.
The Bras-en-l’air or Chinese Magician pocket watch - in two-toned gold, osmior and black and green enamel - already featured a movement similar to today’s retrograde movement: when the button is pressed, the arms of the Chinese magician indicate the time.
In the 1920s, Van Cleef & Arpels also began to imaginatively adorn clocks with a high jewelry touch. Some of the most extraordinary clocks were called Mysterious clocks, such as this Ours de Jade model. An emerald-eyed jade bear supports a crystal and black lacquer dial adorned with diamond numerals and hands, which appear to float and move independently of the mechanism.
Smaller table clocks were also created for travelers and took on practical rectangular shapes inspired by Chinese armoires. They could be opened to reveal the dial and closed when traveling.
The Chinese armoire shape was not the only Asian trait present in the clock design of the 20's and 30's: many clocks were adorned with Chinese details, such as the onyx and jade handles of this red-lacquer desk clock, which is also decorated with crystal, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.