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Van Cleef & Arpels presents seven creations at the fine art and antique fair, TEFAF Maastricht 2024

March 7, 2024

Leaf clip, 1943. Yellow gold, rubies, diamonds. Leaf clip 1947. Platinum, yellow gold, white gold, rubies, diamonds. Heritage collection, Van Cleef & Arpels.

For the past 11 years, Van Cleef & Arpels has participated in the Fine Art and Antique Fair, TEFAF, in Maastricht, an event bringing together masterpieces of various disciplines, from antique artwork to grand master paintings, and even High Jewelry pieces.

As part of this prestigious display, scheduled this year from March 9th to 14th, the Maison is highlighting seven pieces: five from its Heritage collection and two contemporary creations. A blend of tradition and modernity, they illustrate the Maison’s history and inventive spirit, as well as the sources of inspiration it holds dear.

 

The Heritage collection features nearly 120 antique Jewelry and High Jewelry pieces for sale, all of which are jewelry pieces and precious objects created by Van Cleef & Arpels between the 1920s and the 1990s. For this latest edition of TEFAF Maastricht,

Van Cleef & Arpels has selected two Leaf clips from the 1940s and three creations from the 1960s. To discover the Heritage collection, follow this link.

The Maison finds infinite inspiration in the world of flora, as seen in these two leaf-shaped clips. With great restraint, their subtly asymmetrical outlines pay homage to the vitality and expressive spontaneity of nature.

This first creation from 1943, with clean edges, has a polished gold surface spangled with star-set diamonds reminiscent of those that have graced Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Ludo bracelets since the 1930s.

The 1947 Leaf clip sees its central vein recreated with a slender curve studded with a succession of square rubies, whose intense purple hue is brought to life by a yellow gold border. With its multitude of diamonds of many sizes, this piece is an example of Van Cleef & Arpels’ post-war return to the late-19th century’s particularly detailed naturalistic aesthetic.

 

Alongside such pieces as the Zip necklace or the Cadenas watch, the Minaudière stands as one of the Maison’s signatures. In 1933, as he observed an American client stow away her essentials in a metal box, Charles Arpels first had the idea for this sophisticated jewelry case that would go on to contribute to Van Cleef & Arpels’ reputation around the world.

Equipped with a mirror and ingenious compartments, this 1961 Minaudière, allowed women to carry lipstick, calling cards, and a cigarette case during evenings. The world of couture, so dear to the Maison, is reflected in this piece with the delicately woven texture of the gold. The clasp, set with a row of graduated diamonds, adds a final note of sophistication to this object.

 

The fourth piece on display is a pair of earrings that showcases a set of large deep-blue sapphires, enhanced by rose cut. This one is the oldest faceting technique, dating back to the 16th century, offering a particularly subtle and captivating brilliance. Sapphires are joined in this pair by rubies, pear-shaped emeralds and diamonds. Combined with yellow gold, these shimmering cascades of gems swaying to the rhythm of the wearer’s movements would have been perfectly highlighted by the popular short “pixie” hairstyles of the 1960s. These elements can, however, be detached to suit the occasion or the owner’s desires, so that only the main floral motifs remain, in line with the Maison’s long tradition of transformable jewelry.

 

Finally, turquoise dominates a 1968 bracelet with fifteen carefully paired, resplendent azure blue cabochons, joined by eight intense violet amethysts enlivened by the brilliance of twenty-seven diamonds. With this joyful association of fine, ornamental, and precious stones, a vibrant color palette emerges, showcased by a delicate openwork and articulated structure in twisted yellow gold. Round in shape, this spectacular bracelet with rich textural effects is characteristic of 1970s jewelry, with its aesthetic allowing for adaptable wear from day to night.

Van Cleef & Arpels also unveils two unique High Jewelry pieces, perfectly representative of its repertoire: a Between the Finger ring featuring a delicate multicolored butterfly and a ballet dancer clip inspired by couture. These creations highlight the importance, in the Maison’s imagination, of both dance and nature, two worlds that continually breathe grace and lightness into the most precious materials.

  • Léonore ballerina clip. White gold, yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds. High Jewelry collection, Van Cleef & Arpels.

    Léonore ballerina clip

    White gold, yellow gold, sapphires, diamonds

    High Jewelry collection

     

  • Philenor Butterfly Between the Finger ring. White gold, rose gold, 2.5 carat EVVS2 diamond, rubies, pink, sapphires, onyx, turquoise, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds. High Jewelry collection, Van Cleef & Arpels.

    Philenor Butterfly Between the Finger ring

    White gold, rose gold, 2.5 carat EVVS2 diamond, rubies, pink, sapphires, onyx, turquoise, white mother-of-pearl, diamonds

    High Jewelry collection

The High Jewelry clip depicts a ballerina, named Léonore, sporting a voluminous openwork skirt paved with diamonds of various sizes, giving the appearance of gossamer lace. The figure is entirely fashioned in white gold, while her face, crowned with a tiara, is symbolized, as is the Maison’s custom, by a rose-cut diamond topped with baguette-cut diamonds. This harmony is enlivened by a bustier and ballet slipper edged in yellow gold and set with round vibrant blue sapphires. A final touch of refinement comes in the form of a belt of fine gold beads highlighting the dancer’s waist. Emblematic of the Van Cleef & Arpels spirit, this creation is part of a long tradition of clips that poetically marry the worlds of couture and dance. Since Louis Arpels’ keen interest in ballet gave rise to the first ballerinas in the 1940s, the art of movement has remained a vivid passion for the Maison.
 
 
Since its founding in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has enjoyed capturing the enchanting spectacle of nature, of which the butterfly is one of the most vibrant embodiments. This joyful creation, inspired by the Battus philenor, a specimen from America, attests to this. Its wings, with deep hues and contrasting patterns, are here recreated through a meticulous marquetry of onyx, turquoise, and white mother-of-pearl. Shimmering pink sapphires and dazzling diamonds, including a 2,5 carat diamond, enhance the bold interplay of materials and volumes. The Between the Finger ring creates a perfect illusion of a butterfly delicately perched on the hand, which can be worn a variety of ways as the butterfly rotates according to the wearer’s wishes, thanks to an ingenious mechanism. Emblematic of the Maison’s spirit of innovation, this 1970s creation brings two elements together with an open ring to create an elegant asymmetrical aesthetic. Thanks to a specialized polishing technique to render a matt finish, rose gold and white gold match perfectly in this piece full of cheerfulness and sophistication, bearing witness to Van Cleef & Arpels’ expertise and its taste for transformable jewelry.
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    Van Cleef & Arpels presents seven creations at the fine art and antique fair, TEFAF Maastricht 2024

     

    Dates: from March 9th to 14th, 2024

    Opening hours: 11:00am to 7:00pm

     

    MECC Maastricht

    Forum 100, 6229GV Maastricht, The Netherlands

     

    To prepare your visit, follow this link.