Creations

Precious metamorphoses: the necklace of Begum Salimah Aga Khan

Created by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1971, this Indian-inspired necklace remains a Maison signature through the transformability of the piece, the reinterpretation of Indian motifs and the choice of striking stones.

    Indian inspired necklace, 1971, transformable into two bracelets, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Patrick Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels SA.

    Indian inspired necklace, 1971, transformable into two bracelets, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Patrick Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels SA.

    Detachable pendant-clip, in the former collection of the Begum Salimah Aga Khan, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Patrick Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels SA.

    Detachable pendant-clip, in the former collection of the Begum Salimah Aga Khan, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, Patrick Gries © Van Cleef & Arpels SA.

Mounted on a yellow gold structure, this piece can be worn as a necklace or separated into two bracelets and a pendant clip. An ingenious skill allows the owner to disarticulate several pieces by sliding them on gold rails, resulting in a remarkable metamorphosis.

This piece is set with carved emeralds recalling an Indian tradition. They are illuminated by brilliant-cut diamonds. This important creation gathers 745 diamonds for a total of 52 carats and 44 emeralds for 478 carats.

The gadrooned shape of the emeralds, encircled by a single or double row of diamonds, reveals stylized flowers that are displayed by voluminous beads around the neck, each alternating with a double row of emerald corollas. In a nod to the 18th century European devant de corsage and the tassel jewelry motif of the 1920s, the central pendant is completed by two emerald pearls and one drop, held in place with diamond bells.

 

This necklace was in the former collection of Her Highness Begum Salimah Aga Khan. Her Highness Begum Salimah Aga Khan was born Sally Croker-Poole in India in 1940, during the last days of the British Raj. She worked as a fashion model before marrying His Highness Prince Karim Aga Khan in 1969. They lived in France, spending summers in Sardinia and winters in Saint Moritz with Europe’s high society.

Not only was Her Highness Begun Salimah a leading socialite of her time, she also had a genuine love and flair for art and jewelry. Throughout her life, she amassed an exquisite collection of jewels: each of them unique and extraordinary, set with superb gemstones.

This creation demonstrates the Maison's interest in the search for atypical gemstones and pays homage to the art of glyptic.