Ring, 18K yellow gold, diamonds. Sous les étoiles collection, Van Cleef & Arpels

Savoir-Faire

The star setting: between precision and poetry

A technique used by Van Cleef & Arpels since the 1930s, the star setting brings a poetic flair to High Jewelry, Jewelry and Watchmaking creations. The setter first engraves a delicate star into gold or platinum with a burin. A precious stone is then set in the center of the motif, held in place by beads that have been carefully burnished by the craftsman.

Jewelry work, drawing the star setting on the Ludo bracelet

Setting work, star setting on the Ludo bracelet

Constellations of gemstones

On the Sous les étoiles ring and earrings, the star setting gives rise to a celestial vault of jewelry. Fine incisions around each diamond form the outline of a star that catches and diffuses light. The gemstones seem to emerge from the yellow gold, like dazzling stars. This craftsmanship takes on another dimension in the High Jewelry Ludo bracelets, whose hexagonal links are punctuated with star-set gemstones. From one motif to the next, this technique brings rhythm to the composition and creates a subtle dialogue between geometric lines and light.

A technique throughout the Maison’s creative history

Reflecting the Maison’s affinity for goldwork, the star setting has featured in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations since the 1930s. It adorned the first Ludo bracelets, whose hexagonal mesh united the abstract aesthetic of the era and the world of couture. The following decade, its sparkle graced a number of creations, including bracelets, necklaces, earring motifs, clips and hat pins. Among them was the 1944 Ballerina pendant in yellow gold, diamonds and emeralds.