Appearing in 1934, the Ludo bracelet is characterized by its flexible mesh composed of interlocking yellow gold brick links. Its two ends are secured by a rectangular buckle, giving it the appearance of a belt, a prized fashion accessory in the 1930s. On the 1937 piece, yellow gold volutes set with brilliant-cut diamonds—reminiscent of lacework—frame an oval sapphire cabochon in a closed setting. The 1934 “brick-pattern” version was joined the following year by a honeycomb model featuring a mesh of articulated hexagons. Whether adorned with a Mystery Set motif, flowers or arabesques, the Ludo bracelet has since undergone numerous transformations.

These three creations illustrate the work of yellow gold, which became more prominent from the 1930s: the 1946 necklace stands out with its "tubogaz" chain, the Chaîne V necklace features a mesh that reinterprets the Sergé fabric, and the 1953 watch boasts a serpent-link design. The latter recalls the Cadenas models created from 1935, lending suppleness and flexibility to the piece. At either end of the triple chain are two stylized knots, whose intertwining motion is emphasized by the contrast of materials. They consist of a double row of platinum and diamonds framing a yellow gold chain that extends from the bracelet. These elements serve a practical purpose: on the face side, they conceal the dial, and on the back, the clasp. This ingenious design, which allows the wearer to check the time discreetly, carries on the tradition of secret watches introduced into the Maison’s watchmaking collections in 1929.

Finally, these pieces from the early 1970s features a combination typical of the decade: yellow gold, diamonds and an ornamental stone. The contrast of materials and colors is heightened by the glyptic work, an expertise cherished by the Maison. On the 1972 necklace, the onyx, carved to form a ribbed motif, creates the illusion of a scarf passing through diamond-set gold rings. An onyx pendant, also carved, completes the composition. The creation, which detaches to form a bracelet, continues the tradition of transformable jewelry initiated by Van Cleef & Arpels as early as 1907.

Since its founding on Paris’ Place Vendôme in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn boundless inspiration from couture. As a tribute to its city of origin, golden lacework, bows and shimmering passementerie have, over the decades, evoked this historic center of elegance.