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“Designing Jewels”, the new exhibition at L’ÉCOLE China, School of Jewelry Arts in Shanghai

Exhibition - October 31, 2024

René Lalique (1860-1945). Drawing of a ‘‘Hydrangeas flower’’ diadem, c. 1900. Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper. Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund.

From November 1st, 2024 to March 30th, 2025, L’ÉCOLE China, School of Jewelry Arts supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, presents “Designing Jewels” in Shanghai, an exhibition opening up a new field of study of an art form with multiple functions.

It presents a remarkable collection of graphic art, beginning in the 1760s, broadly covering the 19th century and ending with the Art Deco period. The originality of the exhibition lies in its association of important workshops like Lalique and Vever with more discreet ones such as Paillet, Brédillard, Hatot, and Mellerio-Borgnis.

    René Lalique (1860-1945). Drawing of a "Hydrangeas flower" tiara, circa 1900. Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper. Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund.

    René Lalique (1860-1945)

    Drawing of a "Hydrangeas flower" tiara, circa 1900

    Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper

    Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund

Little studied and published, even more rarely exhibited, jewelry drawings remain relatively unknown to the general public. Nevertheless, this drawing plays an essential role, serving as the reference point for all those involved in the creation of the jewelry item. Since the Renaissance, the drawing constitutes the first, and indeed, one might say the primordial step, in that it gives life to the idea, and allows the idea to be realized.

    Léon Hatot (1883-1953). Drawing of a ‘‘Peacock’’ brooch, circa 1920. Pencil and gouache on cardboard. Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund.

    Léon Hatot (1883-1953)

    Drawing of a ‘‘Peacock’’ brooch, circa 1920

    Pencil and gouache on cardboard

    Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund

    Drawing of a box decorated with a dragon, circa 1900. Gouache and pencil on cardboard. Van Cleef & Arpels Archives.

    Drawing of a box decorated with a dragon, circa 1900

    Gouache and pencil on cardboard

    Van Cleef & Arpels Archives

     

Through the various drawings on display, the exhibition allows us to question what is referred to as a “jewelry drawing”. Several themes emerge. The first being that of its creation, like techniques, supports used, materials or standards of this type of drawing. This leads to the question of the identity of the author: a jewelry-designer, a specialist designer, an artist? How many hands are involved in its realization? Finally, remains the question of the use of the drawing: originally it was a “technical tool” to guide the various artisans involved in the production of the piece, but over time, many have become works of art in their own right, admired and sought-after for their unique qualities.

    René Lalique (1860-1945). Drawing of a ‘‘two swans’’ brooch, circa 1900. Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper. Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund.

    René Lalique (1860-1945)

    Drawing of a ‘‘two swans’’ brooch, circa 1900

    Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper

    Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund

    René Lalique (1860-1945). Drawing of a bodice pin ‘‘Maenad and Silenus’’, circa 1900. Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper. Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund.

    René Lalique (1860-1945)

    Drawing of a bodice pin ‘‘Maenad and Silenus’’, circa 1900

    Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper

    Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund

The scenography offers an immersive experience inside an entirely designed space, taking visitors on a journey through a life-size drawing.

  • “Designing Jewels”, the new exhibition at L’ÉCOLE China, School of Jewelry Arts in Shanghai

     

    Date: From November 1st, 2024, to March 30th, 2025

    Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:30am to 6:30pm 

    Location: L’ÉCOLE China, School of Jewelry Arts

    Twin Villas, No. 796, Middle Huaihai Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai, China

    +86 400 0220 214

    Free entry upon reservation

     

    Image : René Lalique, Drawing of a "Hydrangeas flower" tiara

     

    Visit L’ÉCOLE website