“Timepieces and Jewelry in dialogue
by Van Cleef & Arpels”, an exhibition in Geneva, Switzerland
Exhibition - April 11, 2026
The Maison presents the “Timepieces and Jewelry in dialogue by Van Cleef & Arpels" exhibition, from April 11th to June 1st, 2026, at Les Salons 1906 in Geneva, with 12 creations from the patrimonial Collection and 9 archives.
The gold creations above illustrate different working techniques of this precious metal. The cigarette case and the wristwatch from the late 1930s feature repetitive and symmetrical patterns. On the former, the gadrooned geometric decoration refers to a goldsmithing savoir-faire that appeared in Antiquity. The rose gold highlights the two decorative bands on either side of the case. The wristwatch, meanwhile, is composed of a succession of articulated links, whose design evokes that of a rounded chain bracelet. Voluminous, this gold piece also echoes the precepts of late Modernism and early Retro.
The 1945 necklace and the 1946 wristwatch are made using the "tubogas" mesh technique. Introduced in the Maison in 1938 with the creation of the transformable Passe-Partout, this jewelry technique consists of creating a flexible and hollow chain from coiled gold wires. The flexibility of the "tubogas" mesh allows the necklace to perfectly hug the curves of the body, thus offering great comfort when worn. The warm color of the polished yellow gold creates a harmonious contrast with the sparkle of the diamonds, set in a flame motif, recurrent in the Maison since the 1930s. Just like the necklace, the wristwatch combines "tubogas" mesh in yellow gold and a diamond-set dial on white gold, thus amplifying the light and sparkle of the stones.
Among all jewelry techniques, Van Cleef & Arpels also uses twisted gold, as reflected in these pieces from the 1960s. Inspired by the world of couture, dear to the Maison since its foundation, the Bretzel necklace is composed of multiple twisted gold strands, positioned in parallel to evoke the shape of a collar. Diamonds form a clean and brilliant line, highlighting the piece's shape. Characteristic of the twisted gold technique, the Corde motif has adorned the Maison's jewelry and watchmaking creations since the 1940s. On the watch displayed at the top of the page, as well as on the 1960 Feu d'artifice clip, gold threads are meticulously twisted to bring volume and rich texture to the pieces. The creation of this motif requires great technical mastery so that each individually worked strand is then assembled with precision.
Pearls, which arrived in France at the beginning of the 20th century, have continued to inspire jewelers to this day, as evidenced by the 1985 Natte necklace. It is composed of a multitude of rows of small cultured pearls, braided together. Perpetuating Van Cleef & Arpels' tradition for transformable pieces, the yellow gold and diamond clasp, contrasting with the softness of the pearls, can be detached and combined with other "nattes" made of hematite or chrysoprase. The choker shape of the necklace perfectly fits the 1980s trend.
Wristwatch, 1989
Yellow gold, cultured pearls, diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Also adorned with pearls, the bracelet of the 1989 watch is typical of the return of the 1920s "Perlomania". The rows of pearls are interrupted by gold bars set with diamonds, giving the piece light and contrast. This watch features a quartz movement, popularized in the late 1960s and integrated into Van Cleef & Arpels' watchmaking in the late 1970s. It allows for great precision and practicality, preventing the user from having to wind their watch.
In this exhibition, the wristwatches and jewels presented bear witness to the Maison’s aesthetic and technical coherence. Thus, the use of twisted gold, "tubogas" chain or mirror-polishing allows for the creation of audacious designs. From the volume of the yellow gold links of the 1930s to the finesse of the pearl strands of the 1980s, the exhibited pieces reveal the creativity and savoir-faire of Van Cleef & Arpels.
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“Timepieces and Jewelry in dialogue by Van Cleef & Arpels”, an exhibition in Geneva, Switzerland
Dates: from April 11th to June 1st, 2026
Opening hours:
From Monday to Friday from 10:00am to 6:30pm
Saturday from 10:00am to 5:00pm
Location: 31 rue du Rhône, 1204, Geneva, Switzerland
+41 (0)223 11 60 70
Free entry without reservation