Jewelry design represents the initial phase in the creative process and serves as a reference for the craftmen involved later in the production. Every detail is specified: plays of light, touches of yellow gouache to suggest the texture of gold, shapes of links, or the stones' cut.

The Pompon sautoir from 1970 is a reinterpretation of creations of the same name, that were popular in the 1920s. Thus, it is reinvented with more imposing forms and the use of ornamental stones in bright colors, blending, for example, coral and amethyst. These pieces draw inspiration from couture, a universe dear to Van Cleef & Arpels since its creation, and reflect the movement of textile materials, trimmings, or decorative ornaments.

The Crisscross necklace from 1970 and the Brazza ring from 1972 are adorned with tiger's eye and showcase the diversified textures of gold. The tiger's eye, a quartz with russet tones, was particularly prized during that decade.

In the early 1970s, another stone captivated the Parisian jewelers: Chinese jade. From 1972 onward, Van Cleef & Arpels presented a series of oriental-style creations, adorned with finely sculpted green, mauve, and white jade. This material was cherished for its color, translucency, and polished appearance.

This set, crafted in engraved jade, lapis lazuli, and hammered yellow gold, reflects the Maison's interest in decorative arts and Chinese techniques.